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Jul07

Playing with gấc (spiny bitter/sweet/Cochinchin gourd) leads to vegan bò nướng lá lốt (grilled beef wrapped in lolot leaves)

Our experiments with colorful bánh tét and xôi (steamed sticky rice) started my fascination with gấc (spiny bitter gourd, sweet gourd, cochinchin gourd). Lamp and I both loved xôi gấc for its nuttiness and unique flavor. Gấc was also reported to be very well endowed with healthful phytochemicals. I was curious why such a colorful fruit with very distinctive taste is relegated to only one dish – sticky rice. I wanted to explore gấc’s potential when paired with other ingredients in different preparations. So far, we found we really liked pairing gấc & tofu wrapped in lá lốt (Piper lolot) and other herbs.

Tofu with gấc & lá lốt

To highlight the flavor of gấc, I opted for a simple preparation:

  • Lá lốt were washed and dried

Lá lốt

  • drained soft tofu of excess water by wrapping it in paper towel and placing a heavy dish on top for at least 30 minutes, then broke it up in small pieces with a fork
  • gấc seed covering was obtained by beating gấc seeds with chopsticks in a sieve to ensure smoothness (a little bit of vodka was added to enhance the red coloring of gấc)
  • mixed gấc & tofu together with a little bit of salt and sugar

Tofu & gấc

  •  Wrapped tofu & gấc mixture in lá lốt and grilled

 

We were very excited by the results of this experiment. The simple preparation and tofu’s subtle hint of soybean flavor allowed the nuttiness of gấc to shine. We also loved the blend of flavors between gấc and lá lốt. And of course, how can we forget to mention that grilled lá lốt added the best fragrance to our kitchen. I could see myself playing with charred lá lốt in the near future! And while this wasn’t our original intention, when we looked at the finished dish, we realized we just made a vegan version of the traditional Vietnamese dish bò nướng lá lốt (grilled beef wrapped in lolot leaves) :)

Knowing us, you know we couldn’t just stop here. Besides lá lốt, we also played with other kinds of leaves: tía tô (Vietnamese shiso), kinh giới (Vietnamese lemon balm), trầu (betel leaves) & lá dứa (pandan leaves).

From left: Lá lốt, kinh giới, trầu & tía tô rolls

From top: Tía tô, kinh giới & lá dứa rolls

The verdict: Both tía tô and kinh giới yielded very interesting and delicious tasting rolls. While novel in Vietnamese grilling, shiso is commonly used in Japanese cuisine for that purpose, particularly paired with pickled plum and chicken. We did not find any other mention of kinh giới being used for grilling. We will use these herbs for rolling and grilling in future dishes.

Pandan leaves rolls were hard to roll, not pretty and also tasted quite boring. And the big no-no that we discovered was not to roll and grill lá trầu (betel leaves). Those rolls were unpalatable due to lá trầu’s overwhelming spiciness. Oh well.

Comments

  1. Wow!!! This post is full of surprises. Why tofu though? Will any kind of meat go well with gấc? And I had no idea that pandan leaves could be eaten (I thought it was just a flavoring leaf?).

    • Thanks, Mai. I do dream of strange flavor combinations :). Why tofu? Because I wanted to have a relatively plain base to highlight gấc flavors. I also like tofu texture and wanted to have a textural contrast between soft tofu and charred grilled lá lốt.

      Yes, I did combine gấc with meat. I really liked grilled quails marinated with gấc. I think scallops will work, too, but I’ll need to find good scallops. Will have another post on my experiments with gấc and meat in the near future.

      And hehehe, yeah, I wanted to try to see if I could eat lá trầu and lá dứa, but no, they weren’t edible. I had to peel off the leaves and just ate the stuffing in the middle.

  2. Mmmm I so want to try your quails, first with kumquat and now with gấc. 😀

    • Hehehe…I’d suggest that we flip the order: quails marinated with gấc should be enjoyed before kumquat-marinated quails. Kumquats will definitely overpower gấc. And yes, we really should get together very soon…will let you know as soon as I figure out my crazy schedule this month.

  3. I love each and every one of the ingredients. And putting them together is just your genius creativity :D.

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